I received my UHK80 two days ago (with an ISO layout), and I noticed that the B key doesn’t respond at all, even when pressing it to wake up the keyboard. The LED on the key still lights up, and I’ve confirmed that it’s not due to the keyswitch, as swapping the switch on the B key with one from another key still ends with the B key unresponsive.
I’m not sure if others are seeing the same or a similar issue (I didn’t find anything on the forum or on GitHub), and I can’t tell if it’s a firmware or hardware issue at this point (I’m inclined to believe it’s the latter). I’ve emailed customer support two days ago, but haven’t received a response yet.
Tried that, and the pin seems to be going into the socket, but unfortunately didn’t help. I didn’t want to bend the pin too much to avoid breaking it if it misses the socket when I push the switch in.
If it misses the socket it just gets bent all the way to 90 degrees but is easy to straighten back. Happened to me at least a dozen times, but I don’t remember destroying any of them .
I’ve been less lucky before and ended up breaking a couple of switches this way.
Anyways, if it’s most likely to be a hardware issue (that requires a non-trivial fix), then I’m not sure if there is anything that I can do at this point, besides sending it back.
If bending the pins don’t help, then it’s possible that the sockets of the affected keys weren’t soldered properly. We’ve had a couple quality control issues like that, and we do stricter quality control now. It’s easy to fix the soldering of such sockets with a touch of the soldering iron at both ends. Alternatively, we can recall the affected UHKs.
The flickering backlight and 0+ battery indicator probably mean that the batteries are not sufficiently charged. They should be charged via USB via a port that provides sufficient power. If you’re unsure, a dedicated charger should work.
How did the Super key get stuck? Physically? A video would be helpful in diagnosing the issue.
Hello,
the “B” switch works fine in another socket and another working switch doesn’t work in “B” socket so switch is not the problem
I am sorry but I cannot solder, I am disabled and my hands doesn’t work properly
After a reflashing FW, the left half worked for a while (except B key) and battery was charged over 65% so charging shouldn’t be an issue here.
I noticed that even left control key get some time physically stuck as well as super key.
I think it would be the best if I return the keyboard for replacement.
.
