Hi - I was just wondering if it would be possible to add a feature (in Agent) to entirely switch off the Batteries and also BLE and make it cable-only. I’m at the 12.3.1 Firmware and experiencing pretty much all the issues already documented by others here. I trust that all these issues will be fixed over the coming weeks and months. I fully expected there to be birthing pains, because this is not an easy endeavor. In the meantime, it would be great if I could just use the UHK 80 without the batteries being constantly charged (and thereby the left side making that high-pitched noise). Basically a cable only mode, that just works. I could just disconnect the batteries manually but the connectors are hard to reach w/o removing the batteries which I believe are glued-on. So if it possible to just not charge them without disconnecting them that would be ideal.
BLE always being on is not a real problem but I think it is constantly broadcasting and just adding to the Bluetooth noise from other devices, for no good reason, so if it possible to switch it off, why not just switch it off entirely.
My understanding with the sound issue with the UHK60 and the UHK80 is how the bridge cable delivers power to the left hand side. Even if the battery was turned off and the BLE was too, the left side would still need to be powered and you would still have the horrific shrieking.
I don’t really have any issues with noise from my UHK80, but I’d like to know if it’s ok to just simply unplug the batteries from the board, or do we need to do anything else before? Will there be any negative consequences if we do?
I’d like to add a little foam under the PCB (for real this time ), and I’d prefer to remove the batteries before doing so.
Also, is there anything I need to know before disassembling the case? Any tiny parts gonna shoot across the room or fall out & roll under my couch? Has anyone made a disassembly guide for the UHK80 yet?
Yes, bridge cable & USB on both sides, or only the right USB. I can sometimes hear a very faint whine if I’m sitting in perfect silence with my ear literally touching the board.
If it’s a super high pitch, then I guess it’s possible that it’s just outside of my hearing range. I did play in an experimental speed metal band for a couple decades…
Just want to re-iterate that I believe the primary focus for UHK80 firmware/agent development should be making sure it works reliably in full-cable mode. So that early adopters have one mode in which they can use the keyboard productively.
And the easiest way to achieve that, in my mind, is to be able to fully switch off Bluetooth - so it doesn’t try to connect via Bluetooth despite being connected to the PC via cable. And when it is constantly connected via cable I’d like the battery to not constantly charge b/c that will degrade the battery. I know a “stop at 80%” feature is in the works but “not charge at all” would be great if feasible.
Once it works 100% in full-cable mode, focus on both halves connected via spiral cable but right side not connected via cable to PC, then focus on completely-wireless mode. I doesn’t matter if it takes another year until full-wireless mode works 100%, if users can use it in wired mode in the meantime.
I just live in a densely populated area full of ignorance and trolls. I try not to use anything wireless around here if I can’t turn off its visibility. For example, I have 10+ blocked devices on my TV just in the past week or so. I’ve only had a few unwanted connection attempts to the UHK80 though. It’s easy enough to hit “ESC” to deny it, but annoying nonetheless. Good to know it gets a signal from that far away though. Blessing and a curse, I guess.
A lot of systems have a way to make the device discoverable only for a limited time period. You need to press a button to put it into “pairing mode”, and it turns it off again after a minute or two.
Sounds like a sane policy. Following firmware bootup, we can stop advertising after a (configurable) period. A reasonable default period is about 5 minutes.
), and I’d prefer to remove the batteries before doing so.
Has anyone made a disassembly guide for the UHK80 yet?
. (If you need to unscrew anything or pull hard, then you are doing something wrong.)