UHK 60 v1 retrofit hot-swap sockets

Modding
1

I was just wondering if anyone has tried it or if it is even possible to retrofit the UHK 60 v1 with hot-swap sockets?

2

This seems like it would be somewhere between extremely difficult to impossible. This would require the PCB traces to changed to accommodate the brackets that pinch the through-hole pins of the switch and route their connections to the correct pads.

Assuming you could engineer such a solution, it’s really hard to imagine how it would be more efficient than just buying a V2 UHK. You’d need a large number of custom designed components which would require a mix of 3D printing and assembly on top of all of the soldering/desoldering.

Edit: I didn’t even consider the possibility of just replacing the V1 PCB with the V2 PCB, but that would also likely require physical modification, and is probably going to make up the bulk of the cost of just buying a new V2.

3

What about Guide on How to Make Your Keyboard Hotswappable with Mill-Max Sockets approach? Shouldn’t be that complicated.

4 Likes
4

Wow, that Mill-Max seems the way to go! I had never heard of those.
Thank you @kareltucek!

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(Note that I have not checked their diameters, you really should do that before ordering ;-)) .)

6

I converted one of my v1 into hot-swap with Mill-Max 3305-1. The diameters of Mill-Max 3305-1 fit perfectly. The only problem is that v1 plate was not built with hot-swap in mind so the clips of an MX switch won’t hold it. The switches will be held purely by Mill-Maxes themselves but it’s enough to stay in place all the time except when you pull out keycaps. The switches will be extracted with the keycaps on them.

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7

Thanks for the confirmation that it can be done!

Looking at the spec for the 3305-1, looks like the height above the PBC would be 0.25mm. I wonder if a single layer 3D printed shim between the PCB and the plate would allow the switches to clip. :thinking:

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I’ve just checked and it doesn’t seem to be connected with the .25mm shoulder height of the Mill-Max The switch goes all the way down till it is flat on the plate but the clip still doesn’t close. I think it’s because the v1 plate is a bit thicker than those clips.

Maybe it’s possible to dremel off small notches for each clip on the back of the plate. Also it’s possible that the v2 plate is a bit thinner and you can use it since they are interchangeable.

1 Like