New to the scene

Configuration question
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I’ve never used a split keyboard, anything under 100%, etc. I’ve been interested but been hesitant since I don’t even know I’d like it.
I found UHK a while back when looking for keyboards with a trackpoint
I think I’m about ready to get myself a UHK 60 v2
Was looking at Yuzu for keycaps and was thinking of going along the lines of this layout:
https://yuzukeycaps.com/c/58ab93a7-e270-4200-9f40-1d06ef6fa5ed

Any suggestions are welcome
I’d like for the toggled and FN layers to be color coded
The HJKL (Left, Down, Up, Right) decision was inspired by VIM

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Hey @JRLarsen - welcome!

Here are a few tips for a fresh start with UHK - some thoughts I had when I read your message.

The great thing about the UHK is: you can start off as a regular non-split keyboard and get yourself used to the 60% layout. Whenever you are ready, move to split with both halves quite close together, and gradually move them out to whatever feels comfortable for you.

The same goes for tenting. Start flat, and when you want to try tenting, you can install the tenting legs and flip them out. Your body, your hands will tell you when you want to try that step. Maybe one day you want to tent even more, and then you can order yourself a Riser 60.

The UHK60v2 has backlit keys. You can colour-code your layers as a reminder which layer is currently active (you can see that on the display, too), and also as a reminder where certain functions are. You can configure the colour and brightness for each individual key. So for example, you could highlight the HJKL keys in a different colour when on your navigation layer.

You can further individualise your board with Yuzukeycaps, but then you will not see much of the backlight as these keycaps are opaque (not translucent - they don’t let light through).

So it’s a bit of a choice. If you are already sure how you want to configure your 60% layout, sure, go ahead and order yourself Yuzu caps. With the configurability of the UHK, I however see a lot of users playing around with their initial configuration before they stabilise on their long-term setup. You could wait a bit to see what you end up using before settling on your Yuzu design. (Or you just order another Yuzu set when you want to change it.)

Give yourself a bit of time to get to know the feel of the keyboard, the split layout, the 60% functionality, and experiment with Agent and your personal layout!

People here on the forum will happily jump in to help you with any questions.

Have fun on your journey!

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Thanks for the advice. I’ll do just that
I’ve also never replaced the switches or anything on a mechanical keyboard
If I were to get into that, would the Cherry MX Low-Profile Silver switches be compatible with the UHK keyboard?
UHK says it’s compatible with “3-pin and 5-pin MX-style switch”
The datasheet for the switches says the mounting point is “without pins - faceplate mount (3 Pins)”

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Low-profile switches usually do not fit the UHK.

The UHK comes with a decent selection of switch types to get you started. Are you more likely to like clicky switches? Then I would recommend to go with the Kailh box white. Do you want a quieter, but still tactile switch (feels like you have to press over a small bump)? Then pick Kailh box brown. Is your preference a smooth, linear progression all the way until you hit the bottom? Then go with red. Each of those choices is an excellent switch in the corresponding category. They are a good start.

It’s not hard to switch the switches later. The UHK comes with a keycap and key switch removal tool. You first use one of the sides of the tool to pull off the keycaps. Just feed the wire sides of the tool around the keycap and pull. It will just pop off. Then use the other side of the tool which looks like tongs. Position the tongs on the north and south sides of the key switch until you feel they “hook”. Squeeze the tongs a little and pull. The switch should pop out of the keyboard. To install new switches, carefully position them in the right direction, and they should gently slide in a little, so you know their legs are gliding into the openings in the socket. Then give them a moderate push and they should click down into the socket. Finally, put the keycap on top and push it down. Repeat for all keys.

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I just posted this over in the “Definitive Switch Post” a moment ago, because this question comes up so often:

Don’t be misled by the “MX” in the Cherry MX Low Profile switches, they’re not compatible. Most of the time, when someone refers to “MX” style switches, they mean the normal full-size switches commonly used in most keyboards.

BTW, even the Kailh Choc V2 low profile switches (listed in the UHK Shop) are only compatible with the four keys on the very bottom row of the UHK80’s thumb cluster (Fn2/Space/Mod/Fn2). All the other switches for both the UHK80 and the UHK60 use the full-size MX style hot-swap sockets.

Unfortunately, there’s only ONE “low-ish” profile switch confirmed to be compatible with standard MX style switch sockets (two variants - linear & tactile):

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