No.
Does that mean there’s nothing different, or you just don’t know? 
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I’ve noticed this issue on mine (UHK 80 with batteries included) regardless if plugged in; however, the noise is barely audible if either the bridge cable is removed, the device is plugged in on the left side, or the device is unplugged entirely.
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I would guess the middle component is a transistor, based on its shape. I would need to look up it’s markings to be sure, and I cannot read the markings in the photo. This (https://www.reddit.com/r/electronics/comments/1m2hr3/why_do_transistors_make_noise_ie_why_do_they/) might be relevant. Double-check my guess before you act on this, if you’re going to. I am far from an expert on electronics.
The recommended solution here is to increase PWM frequency above audible range, when possible, so it might be fixable with a firmware update. This fits, given that the LEDs are likely PWM modulated and the noise seems (from posts I have read) to be LED brightness related.
I wonder if alternate parts would produce a different noise profile?
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Don’t know.
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I’m looking into it. I hope we get some information from the creators be I definitely want it fully fixed, preferably for all users but defenetly for all users who own a uhk6 and maybe even for uhk80 enjoyer.
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Is there any news regarding the high-pitched noise/squeal at ~8140Hz on the UHK80 when connected to USB-C with LEDs on?
I plan to offer recalls and replace the main boards with ones that feature tantalum capacitors, reducing the noise to near zero. This recall is not available yet. I’ll follow up.
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tantalum capacitors
They have a Star Trek science officer on staff.
It’s great that you figured this out!
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Would it be possible to publish instructions (capacitor sizes and which ones need replacing) so those of us who do electronics could swap those out ourselves?
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I can publish them if there’s enough interest, but soldering about two dozen 0603 tantalum caps with correct polarities can be tedious. If you’re up to the job, please like this comment.
Will we get an email on this or anything? I’d probably need mine to be recalled, but would I need to provide all the original keycaps and switches? It’s just an issue with the board and would like to avoid the headache of going keycaps hunting to make everything like it was shipped to me.
also kinda used the stab from my 80 in my backup 60 uhk 
@mlac From which date should we expect new keyboards to ship, or to have shipped, with the new capacitors? Thanks!
would we be able to do the kind of recall where you guys put a hold on our credit cards, send a new keyboard out, and then we return the original? For me, that would be preferable to being without the 80 for a while.
That sounds extremely convenient, but it would mean they can’t fix and return a keyboard to its original owner. Maybe it would make sense as an option for some who don’t mind receiving refurbished units?
Would you know how the recall would operate regarding DHL import/duty fees? DHL held my package for over $250 AUD for import fees, so if it remains unchanged I’ll likely skip the recall.
little update from my side:
changed the foam I used previously with sorbothane which is a special kind of material used to dampen stuff. put two layers on the region and it helped a little bit and also its not as sticky on the pub. its not fixed tho I hope that there will be a fix in the firmware somehow although I don’t know how that works. in anyway: I really REALLY hope it will be fixed, its really annoying
I’d like to be included in the PCB recall/replacement for this issue–I’m sensitive to sound, and though the board is otherwise awesome, the LED sound is very close to a dealbreaker for me.
@mlac That would be mostly appreciated. I would love to run my UHK with LED fully turned on and also being able to add a battery without having any noises.
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